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The Past and the Present
Gianfranco Ferre was born on 15 August 1944 in Legnano, in northern Italy. He received a degree in architecture in 1969. Ferre began his fashion career in 1970 by designing accessories, then worked as a raincoat designer in 1972-74. He started his own company in 1974 (Baila-label) and launched his signature collection for women in 1978. His first men's collection appeared in 1982, followed in 1986 by his first couture collection in Rome.

Ferre became Stylistic Director of Christian Dior in Paris in 1989, when he was chosen by owner Bernard Arnault to replace Marc Bohan. In 1996, it was announced that Ferre would end his engagement with Dior with the Spring 1997 collection for the label.

His own label is more relaxed and practical than Dior, with functional pockets and no big hats.

Ferre appears to be extremely critical of trends and fashion gimmicks. He deals with his demanding schedule, being responsible for a French top fashion brand and his own Italian label by commuting between Milan and Paris in his private plane. Ferre has a lakeside home in beautiful Lake Maggiore, near Milan.
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Selected Products

* Forma Zero by GFF
* Oaks by Ferre, a sporty line for women
* Ferrejeans (for men and women)
* Studio .0001
* GFF, the bridge line of Ferre
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Selected Awards

* Occhio d'Oro Award (six times) for Best Italian Designer
* Gold Medal from the City of Milan
* Commendatore del Ordine decoration from the President of the Italian Republic
* De d'Or (Golden Thimble Award) for his first Dior haute couture collection (1989)
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Economic Data
Ownership
The Gianfranco Ferre S.p.A. is the holding company that coordinates the fashion business of the Ferre label. It is owned by Gianfranco Ferre (Creative Director) and Franco Mattioli (Chief Financial Officer) in equal shares. Recently, Ferre announced that the group plans to become listed at the Milan stock exchange in 1999. In order to prepare for this movement Ferre started to rearrange the holding significantly. First step was the recruitment of experiened management personnel under the guide of Giuseppe Cipriano. Next step is the reduction of the number of subsidiaries from today 21 to four or five in the future. Another move is the acquisition of the apparel producer Dei Matttioli, which is owned by Franco Mattioli. Ferre also seems to be interested in acquiring some of his contractors, in order to have more control over the production.

Performance
The company achieved total sales of 950 billion Lira ($589 million) in 1994, an increase of 15% over 1993, which had shown enjoyed a similar increase over 1992 sales. Ferre's 14 licences contributed 58% to total sales in 1994. In 1996, total sales were already at 1250 billion Lira ($811 million).

Exports
70% of Ferre sales are achieved in export, where the US appears to be the biggest market with growing importance. Italy still holds 20% of the sales, but the success of the Ferre Jeans business in the US seems to shift the focus here. The Studio .0001 by Ferre line, produced by Italian garment manufacturer Marzotto, is basically targeted at the US market.

Distribution
Ferre distributes in 17 exclusive boutiques worldwide (1994) and has over 250 sales points in total.

Production/ Licenses
Studio .0001 and Forma O is produced by Marzotto, one of the biggest Italian garment manufacturers. The sportswear collections Oaks by Ferre and Ferrejeans used to be manufactured by Italiana Manifatture S.p.A., but recently Ferre contracted those lines for the next ten years to Ittiere, who also furnish the bridge collections of Dolce&Gabbana, Verace, and others. The range of licenced products is wide, including shoes, stationary, luggage, home furnishings, and perfumes. The latest addition to this list is the license given to the Swiss watch manufacturer Swatch.
 

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The following biography contains information on Fashion Designer Francois Girbaud.

BIOGRAPHY
A new breed of creators. Marithe and Francois brought a new approach to fashion; more popular and more industrial, starting with the work-garment: clothing for the generation who lived via music and American cinema. Year after year, they redesign and rethink the Jean, inventing new industrial processes, technical designs in harmony with morphology and the movement of the body.

Their curriculum vitae is an encouragement to the free enterprise system. In 1960, the encounter of two completely different personalities with the same dream: America. Very quickly they established an exchange of ideas and a true complicity of vision. Starting in 1964, they imported a panoply of cowboy garb for Western House the first boutique of its hind in Paris. However, in 1967, Marithe and Francois Girbaud were (already off and running), chasing another dream. They went to all the laundries in the area to wash the jeans. The faded wash was a wild success. This was one idea which the French manufacturers never took seriously and which the Italians were to industrialize. The first licensing agreement was signed under the label in 1969.

COMPANY
marithe & Francois Girbaud

JOB TITLES
Designer

DISCLAIMER
Information in this report relies on information provided by individual designers, public relations agencies and other public sources. Infomat can accept no responsibility for the accuracy or completeness of such information or for loss or damage caused by any use thereof.
 

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The Past and the Present
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (1883-1971) was born in Saumur, Southern France. She began by designing hats, first in Paris in 1908, and later in Deauville. Her fashion boutiques (one in Paris and one in Deauville) opened simultaneously in 1914. She opened an haute couture salon in Biarritz in 1916, and in 1920 moved to Paris in the present quarters on rue Cambon. Ready-to-wear fashions were not introduced until 1978, after Coco's death.

Chanel was famous for popularizing practical clothes, including pants for women, little black dresses, and box-like collarless jackets with bias edging and brass buttons. Her first fabrics included wool jersey, which was comfortable and easy fitting, but was not considered suitable for fashionable clothes. Traditional Chanel accessories include multiple strands of pearls and gold chains, quilted handbags, sling-back pumps in ivory with black toes, quilted handbags with shoulder straps made of gold chain, and gardenias. She liked to mix imitation jewels with real jewels and often combined massive amounts with sportswear.

Chanel's business was interrupted by World War I and again in 1939 at the beginning of World War II, after which it did not reopen until 1953.

After her death in her Paris apartment in 1971, first her assistant designers, Gaston Berthelot and Ramon Esparza, and then her assistants Yvonne Dudel and Jean Cazaubon designed the couture (1975-83). Philippe Guibourge became the ready-to-wear designer. Karl Lagerfeld took over haute couture design in 1983 and ready-to-wear design in 1984. He rehashes her trademark styles annually in various fabrics.

In 1969, a Broadway musical, Coco, starring Katharine Hepburn, was based on Chanel's life.

Surprisingly, Chanel acquired in mid-1997 the French, well-known beach-wear specialist Eres. Presumingly, Eres serves only as an financial investment for Chanel, since it is not planned to interfere with the current Eres business policy.

Chanel is a member of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Pret-a-Porter.
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Selected Awards
Neiman-Marcus Award (1957)
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Economic Data
Ownership
The Chanel group is controlled by the Wertheimer family through various investment holdings (Litor Ltd., Pamerco).

Performance
Chanel keeps a very low profile on its economic figures, but sales are estimated in 1995 at over $1 billion, for 1995 sales are believed to have risen to nearly $2 billion. The new Chanel daughter "Eres" achieved in 1996 sales worth of 60 million Francs ($12 million) and boasts earnings of 7.2 million ($1.4 million). Lagerfeld boasts that when he took over design at Chanel, fashion sales made up only 6% of total sales. Today he estimates more than 50% of total sales stem from fashion.

Distribution
In 1992, Chanel possessed 64 fully owned boutiques. Eres has three fully-owned boutiques in Paris and sells selectively to 420 retailers worldwide (30% of them in France).

Production/ Licenses
Chanel avoids licensing products in order to keep control over the merchandise.
 

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BIOGRAPHY
GARAVANI VALENTINO, date of creation: 1959

1959 Having completed his fashion studies and an apprenticeship with Jean Desses and Guy Laroche, Valentino starts up his first studio in Rome

1960 Begins his collaboration with Giancarlo Giammetti, who manages the commercial development of the House of Valentino

1962 His first collection at the international fashion Gotha in the Palazzo Pitti, Florence, is a triumphant success

1965 Valentino is recognized as the top name in Italian Haute Couture

1967 He is awarded the Neiman Marcus Prize in Dallas (the equivalent of an Oscar in the world of Fashion)

1968 Valentino's reputation is secured with the enormous success of his "Collezione Bianca", the first clothes and accessories to have the magic "V" label Designs the wedding dress worn by Jacqueline Kennedy for her marriage to Aristote Onassis

1969 Begins his Boutique line of clothes and opens the first Valentino shop in Milan

1970 Launch of his first Ready-to-Wear collections Opening of Valentino boutiques in Rome and New York

1971 Opening of the first menswear shop in Via Condotti

1975 First fashion show of his Ready-to-Wear collection in Paris

1976 Opens a boutique in Tokyo

1978 Launch of the Valentino perfume at a gala evening in Paris, at the The‰tre des Champs Elysees

1982 Publication of the book "Valentino", edited by Franco Maria Ricci 20 September, Valentino presents his Autumn/Winter collection at the Metropolitan Museum in New York

1984 Valentino celebrates his twenty-fifth year in the business and receives an official award from the Minister for Industry

1985 He is awarded the Grand'Ufficiale dell'Ordine al Merito by the President of Italy

1986 Receives the highest decoration possible in Italy, the Cavaliere di Gran Croce, from the President

1989 First show of the Haute Couture collection in Paris

1990 In February, Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti found L.I.F.E (initials in Italian for "Fighting, Informing, Building, Teaching"), an association working for the fight against Aids

The Accademia Valentino is officially opened to the public with an exhibition of painters of the Roman School Exhibition of "The Art of Cartier" at the Accademia Valentino Publication of the book "Valentino: Trent'Anni de Magia", by Leonardo

1991 To celebrate his thirtieth year in the fashion business, an exhibition entitled "Valentino: Thirsty Years of Magic" is organized in Valentino's honour by the Mayor of Rome at the Capitole Museum, while the Accademia Valentino presents a retrospective of his designs

Creation of the perfume Vendetta for men and women

1992 Exhibition at the Accademia Valentino entitled: "La seduzione da Boucher a Warhol" The "Valentino: Thirty Years of Magic"' exhibition is invited to go to New York to coincide with the fifth centenary celebrations of the discovery of America. Valentino is invited by the Chinese government to stage a show in Beijing

1994 In January, Valentino presents his first ever costume designs at the Eisenhower Theatre in the John Fitzgerald Kennedy Center, Washington, for an opera entitled "The Dream of Valentino", based on the life of the movie star Rudolf Valentino

1995 Valentino's return to Italy is celebrated on 14 January in Florence with a fashion show at the Stazione Leopolda, over thirty years his first show at the Palazzo Pitti. The Mayor of Florence awards him the "Premio speciale dell'arte nella moda"

1996 Valentino is named Cavaliere del Lavoro

1998 The House of Valentino is bought by H.d.P group (Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali), present on the Stock market. Their goal is to create the first italian luxury group

Haute Couture Women's ready-to-wear Men's ready-to-wear Perfumes Accessories.
 
 
 
 
 

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